Static grass puffer bottles work by manually charging model grass fibres with static electricity. When the charged...
Valid to UK only - excludes oversized items
Static grass puffer bottles work by manually charging model grass fibres with static electricity. When the charged...
The term "Conflat" is a contraction of the words "container" and "flat" and refers to a type of container flat wagon...
If you were painting a red brick wall, to get a realistic effect, I would, after the wall had been primed with a...
Modern Graham Farish and Dapol rolling stock should in theory couple together with little problem. This is thanks to...
In scale modelling, "flock" refers to finely ground fibres or particles used to simulate textures such as grass,...
Many modellers use washes to help bring out that extra level of detail in a model by creating elements of weathering or general wear and tear. Black coloured washes are an effective means of achieving this and inevitably when used will help bring out subtle or otherwise hidden aspects of surface detail. This can really help the detail of a model to really pop visually, turning what might otherwise be a drab two-dimensional surface into a visually impactful three-dimensional surface.
Black washes are great at hinting at accumulations of dirt and oil residues but can be a little too stark in some instances. Where a more subtle effect is required then it is useful to look at other colours for washes. Brown is very good at hinting at dirt and debris and varying hues of dark grey can hint at metallic wear and tear on wheel rims. These lighter colours offer a more subtle contrast of colours and may allow a modeller to feather in the different textures allowing them to effectively 'blur' thus creating a more realistic effect.
Sometimes it can be useful to use washes in combination with other weathering techniques such as weathering powders or dry-brushing. These differing techniques can often be used in combination to create very realistic effects that may be more difficult to achieve using only one technique.
As with so many issues of modelling sometimes it is useful to approach weathering on a trial-and-error basis. Washes produced by manufacturers may not necessarily offer the desired colour effect for the situation. In this case, it can be useful for the modeller to produce their own 'bespoke' washes for a particular situation. One way to achieve this is by the use of Oil Paints similar to those used by artists. The modeller can experiment with various combinations until the desired shade or colour is achieved. Simply thin this with turpentine or similar thinners to achieve the desired consistency for the wash and then apply it to the model. Why not try this on your next project?
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Do I need to use a primer?
What is weathering?
How do I clean brushes used with enamel paint?
How do I fill holes in a model?
What is the best size paintbrush?